Benjamin Leroux Bourgogne Rouge 2019

A great mixture of sites this year includes 25% villages wines from St-Romain Sous le Château, Savigny and Monthelie. The Bourgogne-level fruit was drawn from the excellent Maison Dieu in Pommard, Mon Poulain in Volnay, Belles Côtes in Meursault and Croix Blanche in Vosne. Then there’s a good glug from the Dames Huguettes vineyard which lies in the Hautes-Côtes de Nuits above Vosne-Romanée.

Make no mistake, these are serious vineyards for a wine at this level. Leroux has always made clear that it is his aim to exceed expectations with his Bourgogne-level wines, and the 2019 just smashes it out of the park. Everything about this release—the fruit intensity, purity, structure and length—screams excellent villages quality. The grapes were entirely de-stemmed, and élevage took place in 2,200 litre, Grenier oak casks, supported by a few 228-litre Burgundian barriques. There was next to no new oak used.

“75% comes from Bourgogne and Hautes Côtes de Nuits Dames Huguettes vineyards, with some fruit from Savigny, St-Romain and Monthelie. Glowing red purple, very exciting lifted fresh dark red fruit. Darker fruit on the palate, but still with a great sense of energy, filling the mouth, balanced fruit and tannins, ready for bottling. Very long.” 88-89 points, Jasper Morris, Inside Burgundy