Screwcap. Certified organic. Defaix's Chablis villages is drawn from four parcels of mature, 30-plus-year-old vines situated around Milly and Poinchy, on the left bank of the Serein River. The wine was fermented wild and aged on fine lees for 10 months in glass-lined tanks.

The older vines and organically tended vineyards here translate more character, refinement, and classical restraint--not to mention supersized minerality and ozone salinity. There is even more Chablisien detail this year. The texture is succulent, with the rippling splendour of stone fruit and citrus-skin zestiness to go with its charged acidity and jangle of minerals. The three Ps: power, poise, and persistence. A super villages.

Domaine Bernard Defaix Chablis 2022